Pouilly-Fuissé Climat "En Chatenay" Zen AOC 2023

A Chardonnay that has gone through fermentation and ageing without any added sulphur, and you can hear it in the nose: mellow yellow apples and fully ripe pears with faintly oxidative edges, underpinned by delicate spice notes of mace, light tobacco and a touch of acacia in the upper register.

En Chatenay is a climat within the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation in southern Burgundy: 0.69 hectares at around 250 metres of altitude, on soil rich in red clay and limestone. The plot is farmed by La Soufrandière in Vinzelles, an estate founded in 1947 by Jules Bret, which Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret have run since 2000, converting it to biodynamic viticulture from that point on. Since 2010 the youngest brother, Marc-Antoine, has joined them; the domaine today spans 12 hectares across Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran.

Pure Chardonnay, whole-cluster pressed and spontaneously fermented with its own native yeasts, then aged around 17 months on the lees. No sulphur is added during fermentation or ageing; only a minimal dose is applied at the unfiltered bottling stage. 14.0% ABV, dry.

The attack is gripping and powerful, structurally defined by firm tannins that give the wine its austere outline. Aromatically, the spicy side now leads, with the fruit receding into the background. The ripe acidity moves with nonchalance, buoyed by the fine phenolic structure.

The label carries the Demeter logo; La Soufrandière has been certified organic by Ecocert since 2003 and biodynamic since 2006. Part of the vineyards is worked with horses to minimise soil compaction, and some of the estate's vines are over 80 years old.