Escondite del Ardacho El Abundillano 2023

A clearly defined high-altitude Rioja with a medium, elegant body. The power of the old vines shows in concentration, not weight.

The plot covers 0.95 hectares and sits at 590 metres altitude in Rioja Alavesa, the Basque part of Rioja. It lies exposed and unprotected to the Cierzo north wind, in a mixed Atlantic-Mediterranean climate. The soil consists of marl and sandstone with a high iron oxide content. The vines are 98 to 113 years old; Garnacha is now extremely rare in this subzone, and where it does occur, it's in vineyards as old as this one.

The vineyard is planted with 90% Garnacha, 9% Tempranillo and 1% Malvasia Riojana. Roberto Oliván, who runs Tentenublo in the Basque village of Viñaspre and farms his vineyards biodynamically, lets the grapes ferment spontaneously in open vats and ages the wine for nine months in used oak barrels.

Elegant opening, silky texture, soft, fine tannins. A peppery spiciness plays against ripe cherry, joined by aromatic herbs such as thyme and oregano. The 15% alcohol is well integrated and balanced against the acidity and body; no oak notes are perceptible. The finish is long, juicy and invigoratingly spiced.

Pairs well with herb-crusted rack of lamb, braised aubergines, mushroom dishes and aged Manchego, as well as tapas with chorizo and peppers.

1,626 bottles were produced from the 2023 vintage. What stands out is how fresh and clear the wine feels at 15.0% ABV.