Triologie KM-3 2022

An undosed Champagne whose appeal lies in its tension: crisp acidity, saline chalk, dark fruit without any sweetness. The abbreviation KM refers to the Kimmeridgian marl on which the grapes grow.

The Côte des Bar in the south of Champagne rests on Kimmeridgian marl and Portlandian limestone, Jurassic soils full of fossilised marine shells. Benoît Doussot arrived here in 2015 after graduating from the Lycée Viticole in Beaune and founded Clandestin as a micro-négoce. The first cuvées were made in Bertrand Gautherot's converted barn; since 2023 Doussot has worked in his own winery in Landreville, built on two levels for gravity-flow vinification, without pumps.

Single-varietal Pinot Noir from organic grapes grown by eleven partner growers in southern Champagne, whom Doussot supports through conversion and pays fairly. Raised in Beaune and trained under Jean-Philippe Fichet in Meursault, he uses temperature-controlled spontaneous fermentation and twelve months' ageing in 500- to 600-litre barrels rather than classic pièces, which keeps the wine lean and requires less sulphur. This is followed by a winter en masse in tank, then after bottle fermentation at least 15 months sur lattes, before being bottled as Brut Nature. 13.0% ABV.

Dark cherry and red berries, with brioche from lees ageing, lemon zest and chalky limestone. The mousse stays fine, the finish saline and long.

Oysters and sole, smoked char, dill-cured salmon, chanterelle risotto, crispy duck breast, as well as Champagne goat cheese or mature Comté.

Clandestin buys exclusively organic grapes and vinifies all its Champagnes without dosage. Partner growers get to taste the finished wine instead of seeing their grapes disappear into anonymous blends.