"I Tre Borri" IGT 2020

A Sangiovese of noble understatement: nothing pushes to the fore, yet the wine carries far. Sour cherry sits at the centre, wrapped in Tuscan macchia scrubland and wild herbs such as bay leaf, thyme and rosemary. Spice notes of juniper, sandalwood and black olives round out the picture.

The vines grow at 300 metres above sea level on limestone- and clay-rich soils scattered with pebbles, remnants of an ancient seabed. Of the estate's 140 hectares, only 17 are planted with vines; the rest is home to 4000 olive trees, pastureland and 600 sheep of Sardinian breed, which act as natural custodians of the landscape and support biodiversity in the vineyards. The Gelpke-Goldschmidt family has farmed this mixed estate organically for over 50 years; winemaker Arianna Gelpke has run the cellar since 2005, while agronomist Aljoscha Goldschmidt oversees the vineyard and the estate.

90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Double hand-harvest, fermentation kept separate by grape variety and vineyard, with up to 5% whole clusters co-fermented in top vintages. Fermentation proceeds spontaneously with the estate's own yeasts in small one-tonne vats and open fermenters; skin contact lasts 21 to 35 days depending on grape quality, site and soil. Extraction is achieved by gently submerging the cap, rarely by pumping over. Malolactic fermentation takes place partly in wood, partly in steel, after which the wine ages for around a year in large casks of 25 to 40 hectolitres as well as, in part, in used barriques and tonneaux.

Aromatically profound, carried by a wide arc of acidity that lends the wine pace as well as length. The rich fruit is framed by fine-grained tannins, with a noble bitter note adding further depth. The finish stays ethereal, the aftertaste long and fruity. 14.5% ABV, dry.

"I Tre Borri" is made only in the best years from the best parcels. The estate's total annual production is 75,000 bottles.