Suisassi Costa Toscana IGP 2019

A single-varietal Syrah of great density that never plays its 15.0% vol. as sheer power. The dark fruit stays composed, the tannin is silky, and a cool, ethereal streak runs through the entire wine. Dry, unfined and bottled unfiltered.

The vineyard in Riparbella is clay-rich and stony, with limestone in the subsoil; Elena Celli and Luca D'Attoma describe it as extreme. It faces the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the vines were planted 17 years ago. The estate lies eight kilometres north of Bolgheri in an amphitheatre-like setting at 250 to 300 metres, where maritime influence meets a continental climate.

Hand-harvested with a first selection in the vineyard, gentle destemming, and a second selection at the sorting table so the berries reach the vat unharmed. Fermentation takes place in 1,000-litre conical oak vats and in small barriques of French origin, with around 30% of the harvest as whole clusters. In the barriques, punch-downs are done by hand; in the conical vats, the must is pumped over the cap. After 30 days on the skins, the wine ages 22 months in the same barrels, 80% first-fill and 20% second-fill, without further racking.

Dense and concentrated, carried by blackberry, sweet cherry, mulberry, fig and cassis, along with plum and preserved morello cherries. Spice notes of cinnamon, black pepper, juniper, rosemary, oregano and liquorice, plus coconut, liquorice and melted dark chocolate. The acidity grips and keeps the wine fresh, with eucalyptus and mint defining a finish that lasts for minutes.

Charcoal-grilled tomahawk with artichokes and rosemary jus, braised ox cheeks with port jus and sweet potato mash, or the vegetarian oven-roasted beetroot with parsley pesto, walnuts and braised beef tomatoes.

Duemani was founded in 2000 by Elena Celli and Luca D'Attoma and has been Demeter-certified since 2004; the logo appears on the label. Twelve hectares, around 45,000 bottles a year.