Fidèle Brut Nature R22

A Blanc de Noirs that forgoes any sweetness: Brut Nature here means literally no dosage. The Fidèle shows Pinot Noir in its most austere form, with red berries, mirabelle plum and citrus zest, underscored by brioche, white blossom and a chalky edge. A Champagne that demands attention and rewards it.

Buxières-sur-Arce lies in the Côte des Bar, in the southern Champagne region. Five hectares are rooted there in Kimmeridgian and Portlandian limestone, the soil that lends the wine its saline tension. Bertrand Gautherot took over his family's vineyards in 1986 and has been bottling his own Champagnes since 2001; he is regarded as a pioneer of natural winegrowing in the Aube and the spiritual father of the Côte des Bar.

Pure Pinot Noir, spontaneously fermented with wild yeasts and aged in oak barrels. No dosage, no filtration, only minimal sulphur addition. Every step is done by hand, from pruning to disgorgement. 12.0% ABV.

Direct and dry, carried by precise acidity. The fruit stays taut and clear, red apple and cherry, with a fine yeasty spice. The finish is saline and long.

Oysters and other seafood, charcuterie and terrines, along with hard cheeses such as Comté.

The wines of Vouette & Sorbée are rare and sought after. Gautherot called his cows his marketing department — which says more about the priorities in his cellar than any label could.