Isteiner Spätburgunder 2022

A darkly toned Pinot Noir that never overplays its density. The nose moves from preserved morello cherries, plum, elderberry and sweet cherry to raspberry and redcurrant, then into the forest: undergrowth, forest floor, a hint of truffle. Joined by cigar box, conifer bark, fir needles, juniper, clove and mixed pepper.

The vines stand on a highly exposed site at the Isteiner Klotz in the Markgräflerland, on Jurassic sedimentary rock and coral limestone. Weingut am Klotz has existed in its current form since 2018/2019, when the families of the Reinecker sparkling wine estate and Fritz and Friedrich of Weingut Franz Keller took over the operation, which had no successor, and converted the vineyards to organic farming. In 2022, the first quarter stayed very dry, and two icy nights at the end of March brought frost damage. The poverty of the sites pushed the drought close to a critical threshold; rain a few weeks before harvest kept the energy in the grapes. Picking began as early as late August.

Pinot Noir, hand-picked and carefully selected, guided in the cellar with minimal intervention. 14 months of ageing in barrique, of which only 25 percent was new oak.

The entry stays true to the dark line of the nose, but the mouthfeel takes over: silky, polished, with a warm, dense core carried by a cooling, taut mineral structure. The dark fruit retains its tangy edge, while the spice stays well dosed and drifts toward the ethereal.

Smoked venison ham with Pantarei olive oil and lamb's lettuce, venison fillet with cranberry sauce and savoy cabbage, or braised venison shoulder with celeriac mash, parsley oil and toasted walnuts.

Organic farming, hand harvesting and restrained oak use. Vinified dry, 12.5% Vol.