Crozes Hermitage blanc, Aux Bêtises AOP 2023

A white Crozes Hermitage that brings together richness and precision. The nose is fine and floral: jasmine, lily of the valley and roses, underscored by pineapple, yellow apple and pear, along with white tea and a hint of parsnip.

The vines grow on clay-and-limestone terraces in the commune of Beaumont-Monteux in the northern Rhône. The Châssis plateau is scattered with galets, the round pebbles of old riverbeds that store warmth during the day and release it back to the vines at night. Yields are around 45 hl/ha. David Reynaud farms the 27 hectares of Domaine Les Bruyères biodynamically, ploughs the soils with a horse and works in the underground cellar according to the gravity-flow principle.

A blend of 75 percent Marsanne and 25 percent Roussanne. Classic winemaking with full destemming, direct pressing in a pneumatic press at low pressure and spontaneous fermentation. Ageing lasts eight months, two-thirds in ovoïde and one-third in pièce bourguignonne.

Full and ripe, yet clearly defined. Quince and apple meet liquorice and wax, the texture is slightly buttery, the finish spicy and piquant. Power and freshness stay in balance. Dry, 12.5% vol.

Pan-fried pikeperch with creamed vegetables, poultry with morel cream sauce, pale veal ragoût and mature Aisy Cendré.

David Reynaud took over the family estate in 2002 and converted to organic farming a year later. 87 percent of the vineyard is planted with Syrah; the Aux Bêtises comes from the estate's smaller white-grape section and shows what the terraces can offer beyond the red variety.