Suisassi Costa Toscana IGP 2019 1500ml Magnum

A Syrah of great density, its concentration captured in a silky, cooling form. The fruit feels expansive, kept in motion by a vibrant acidity.

Elena Celli and Luca D'Attoma consider the vineyard in Riparbella extreme: rich in clay, stony, with limestone underneath and oriented toward the Tyrrhenian Sea. The vines were planted 17 years ago. Founded in 2000, the estate farms twelve hectares and has been Demeter-certified since 2004.

Single-varietal Syrah, hand-harvested and selected twice, both in the vineyard and at the sorting table. Around 30 percent of the crop ferments as whole clusters, in 1000-litre conical oak vats and in French barriques; punched down by hand in the barriques, and by pumping over the must in the conical vats. This is followed by 30 days of maceration and 22 months of ageing in the same vessels, 80 percent first-fill and 20 percent second-fill. No racking or filtration before bottling.

The entry is dense, the tannin melting and silky-smooth. Behind it, blackberry, mulberry, fig and preserved morello cherries, spiced with black pepper, cinnamon, rosemary and liquorice root, plus coconut, liquorice and melted dark chocolate. The acidity strikes with grip and keeps the wine fresh. Eucalyptus and liquorice define a finish that lingers for minutes, with a subtle firmness revealing its youth.

Charcoal-grilled tomahawk with artichokes and rosemary jus, braised ox cheeks with port jus and sweet potato mash, or oven-roasted beetroot with parsley pesto, walnuts and braised beefsteak tomatoes.

The label carries the Demeter logo. The 1500ml magnum at 15.0% vol. gives this dry red time to develop in the cellar.